What Is a Selvedge Stitch?
A selvedge stitch is an edge stitch — usually the first and last stitch of every row — that’s worked a little differently from the rest of the fabric to create a neater, more stable border along the side of your knitting. Selvedge stitches are especially useful along edges that will later be seamed together, since a tidy, consistent edge makes it much easier to pick up stitches evenly or sew a straight seam.
Selvedge Stitch vs. Edge Stitch (Are They the Same?)
Yes — “selvedge stitch” and “edge stitch” are generally used interchangeably in knitting to describe the same thing: the border stitch or stitches worked along the side edges of a piece specifically to make that edge neater or easier to work with later, rather than being part of the main stitch pattern.
What Is a Stockinette Selvedge Edge?
A stockinette selvedge edge refers to the natural edge you get when you simply knit a stockinette fabric without any special edge treatment — the edge stitches roll slightly and alternate between a knit “bump” and a purl-side look depending on which row you’re on. Because plain stockinette edges can curl and aren’t perfectly uniform from row to row, many knitters add a deliberate selvedge stitch (such as slipping the first stitch, or working the edge stitches in garter) specifically to counteract that curl and give themselves a flatter, more predictable edge to seam.
Common Selvedge Options for Seaming
Slip-Stitch (Chain) Selvedge
A slip-stitch selvedge — sometimes called a chain edge — involves slipping the first stitch of every row (usually knitwise or purlwise, depending on the instructions) instead of knitting it. This halves the number of edge stitches you have to deal with per inch, which some knitters find makes for a flatter, less bulky edge to seam, with a clear chain-like column of stitches to sew along.
Garter Selvedge
A garter selvedge works the first and last stitch (or first and last few stitches) of every row in garter stitch — knit on every row — regardless of what the main body of the fabric is doing. This creates a firm, flat, non-curling border that many knitters find easy to see and count, which can make seaming more straightforward, especially for garments in stockinette that would otherwise curl at the edges.
Plain Knit-Every-Row Selvedge
Some patterns simply call for knitting the first and last stitch of every row (on a stockinette fabric, this means knitting the edge stitch even on rows where you’d otherwise purl). This is a lighter-touch option than a full garter border and still helps reduce curling along the seam edge, though it generally doesn’t flatten the edge as firmly as a dedicated garter selvedge.
Which Selvedge Is Best for Seaming?
There isn’t one selvedge stitch that’s universally “best” for every seam — the right choice depends on the fabric, the seaming method, and personal preference. That said, a few general patterns hold up across most knitters’ experience:
- A slip-stitch (chain) selvedge tends to be popular for mattress-stitch seams on stockinette, since its clear chain of stitches gives you an easy, consistent line to sew through.
- A garter selvedge is often favored when curling is a bigger concern, or when the edge will be picked up for a button band or neckband rather than sewn directly.
- A plain knit-every-row edge is a reasonable middle ground when you want some anti-curl benefit without changing the look of the edge as much as a full garter border would.
If you’re not sure which to use, it’s worth swatching both options on the actual yarn and gauge you’re working with, since how an edge behaves can vary with yarn weight and fiber.
How to Sew Garter Stitch Seams Together
Garter stitch seams are generally sewn using mattress stitch adapted for garter’s bumpy texture, working through the “bumps” (the purl ridges) along each edge rather than through the smooth V-shaped stitches used for stockinette mattress seams. Because garter stitch is shorter and wider per row than stockinette, you’ll typically be matching bumps roughly row for row rather than needing a ratio adjustment, which can make garter seams a little more forgiving to line up evenly. Lay the two edges side by side, right sides facing up, and work the seaming yarn back and forth between corresponding bumps on each piece, pulling gently every few stitches to close the gap without puckering.
Stitch vs. Seam: What’s the Difference?
A stitch is a single knitted loop — the basic unit that makes up your fabric, created as you knit or purl. A seam, by contrast, is the join formed when two separate pieces (or two edges of the same piece) are sewn or otherwise connected together after knitting. In other words, stitches are what you make while knitting the fabric itself; a seam is a finishing step that joins pieces of that fabric together, often using a selvedge stitch along the edge to make that join neater.
FAQ
Which stitch is also known as an edge stitch? A selvedge stitch is also commonly called an edge stitch — both terms refer to the border stitch worked along the sides of a piece to make seaming or picking up stitches easier.
How do you sew garter stitch seams together? Garter seams are typically joined with mattress stitch worked through the garter bumps along each edge, matching bumps between the two pieces and pulling the seam snug as you go, rather than using the V-shaped stitch path used for stockinette seams.
What is a stockinette selvedge edge? It’s the natural, untreated edge of a stockinette fabric, which tends to curl and vary slightly row to row. Many knitters add a deliberate selvedge stitch (slip-stitch or garter) along stockinette edges specifically to reduce that curl before seaming.
What is the difference between stitch and seam? A stitch is an individual knitted loop that makes up the fabric; a seam is the sewn join connecting two separate edges or pieces together after knitting.